THE scorching sun beats down on the dusty village roads. But the people who line the streets are oblivious to the heat. There is a sense of gaiety in the air. Women and children rush out of their homes, splashing mugfulls of water at the marathon runners as they pass by, bare torsos glistening with sweat.

Though the New Year has long since dawned, festivities are still on in Habarana, with every village conducting sporting events and even beauty contests. As I watch the smiling, happy faces and soak in the relaxed atmosphere, it is difficult to believe that I am in a country torn by civil strife.

We arrive in Colombo just a couple of days after the New Year (April 14). Its been less than a month since LTTEs first aerial strike on Katunayake Air Force Base near the Bhandarnaike international airport. Habarana, in Anuradhapura district, is a four hour drive from Colombo, cutting through a lush green landscape.

Late in the evening, we check into Chaaya Village, a sprawling resort that blends into its rich natural surroundings. The open lounge and bar area are filled with cricket enthusiasts. But people are more excited about another international media event the Abhi- Ash wedding. Once they realise we are Indian journalists, we are deluged with questions about the famous couple.

Sri Lankan cuisine with red rice, string hoppers and spicy potato curry and pittu (what we know as puttu) only serves to reinforce the impression of being in Kerala, another tourists paradise. Except that the hotel staff here wonder whether theyll have a steady stream of tourists. The travel advisories of many countries now warn against travelling to Sri Lanka, they rue. Soon after the first aerial attack, Australia issued a strict warning against travelling to the island.

Habarana is in the heart of Sri Lankas Cultural Triangle, which links the ancient capitals of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy. Next morning, we are up with the sun, heading for Sigiriya, a world heritage site just a short drive from the hotel.

We wander through the ruins to the base of the 370 m tall rock on which the magnificent fortress was built by King Kashyapa in the fifth century. The climb is long and arduous, but enough incentives along the way keep us going. Like the beautiful, if faded, frescoes atop the winding staircase. The last steep flight of stairs, which narrows to a rather fragile iron staircase, is through the Lion Gate, so called because the entrance was formerly through the mouth of a stone lion. Today, only the massive paws remain. The view from the summit is breathtaking, encompassing the remnants of the royal pool and palace, the throne, walkways and gardens. In the afternoon, we are off to view the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, another world heritage site.

After the destruction of Anuradhapura, it was the capital of Sri Lanka from 11 AD to 13 AD.

The next day, we head for the spice gardens of Matale. At 9 New Paradise Spice Garden, Mohammed Nisthar, the manager, welcomes us with a delicious drink of cocoa milk laced with red banana extract, before leading us through the garden, challenging us to identify an aromatic leaf or a little berry.

Nisthar is insistent that we try a massage. And as he eases the pain from our aching limbs, we get a glimpse into lives that have been altered by the ugly face of terrorism. About 70 families depend on this garden for their livelihood, says Nisthar. Earlier, about 20-25 tours would visit our garden every month, but now we are lucky if we get one.

The spice gardens have their own cure for everything be it migraine or a low sex drive. Besides the aromatic sandalwood and lotus oil perfumes, the herbal hair removing cream and slim drops are star attractions. Any of these will burn a hole in your budget, though.

We then head towards the hill town of Kandy. As dusk falls, we make our way to the Dalada Maligawa or Temple of the Tooth, just in time for the special puja amidst heavy security. Understandable, as the shrine, which houses the scared tooth of Buddha, was bombed by terrorists in 1998, damaging its faade and roof.

The next day, we reluctantly leave behind Kandys cool environs and embark on the long drive to Colombo. Green hillsides and fresh mountain air rapidly give way to dusty roads, concrete and numerous check posts.

Our first impression of Colombo is that of a ghost city. At 5.30 pm the streets are deserted except for the stray pedestrian hurrying home. Armed guards are posted every few yards. The shops have all downed their shutters; a little ahead, the huge poster of an exaggeratedly voluptuous woman succeeds in attracting a few to a rundown little theatre.

But by 9.30 the next morning, the city is brimming with life. We drive by the highly guarded beach, with coast guard boats whizzing by on the horizon. On a Saturday morning, people crowd the steps of a famous shopping mall, House of Fashions, waiting for it to open. The clothes, especially cottons, are cheap. If you have a higher budget you must definitely drop into Odel and Barefoot.

Everywhere around you, the streets fill up with people, enjoying the weekend. And as we leave, we are struck once again by the spirit of the people who live here; people who have learned to make their peace in times of war.